Weeks 31 & 32: insane finger strength

What I did:

I just finished the second cycle of the lattice hangboard training and redid the assessment. I've been focussing on density hangs and 7/3 power endurance repeaters for 8 weeks now (the total plan is 12 weeks long). Redoing the assessment isn't just important to see progress, but also to get the intensity right for the final cycle (4 weeks of max strength training).

Assessment:

• Max half strength (20mm edge, half crimp)
  • June 2022: 89kg (119%)
  • Now: 107kg (142%)
• Max 2-rep pull up
  • June 2022: 107kg (143%)
  • Now: 111kg (148%)
• Hollow body hold
  • June 2022: 60 seconds
  • Now: 67 seconds
• 60% of max 7/3 repeaters (20mm edge, half crimp)
  • June 2022: 112 seconds (53kg)
  • Now: didn't test, I assumed it improved and didn't want to tire myself out

I also trained on the replica's that I made of the Hermann Buhl cruxes on kilterboard. During such a session, I would try the first crux 5 times with 1 minute of rest between attempts, and would only be able to do the moves the first 2 times before getting too tired. After a 4 minute rest I would start trying the second crux 5 times, again with 1 minute of rest between attempts. I can send the replica of the second crux all 5 times. However, if I make it more realistic and grab the 1st hold with 2 fingers (as in real life it's a 2 finger pocket), then I fail almost every single time.

Reflecting: 

The improvements in term of strength have been absolutely insane, especially considering the last 2 cycles were focussed on power endurance. This just goes to show how big newbie gains can be :)

I also think Lattice did a great job of personalising the hangboard training plan for me. They noticed my open crimp was much better than the half crimp, and thus made sure I focussed on density hangs to close the gap between those grip types.

It's also interesting to note that I scored poorly in terms of pulling power just 2 weeks ago. This just goes to show that you have to finish a training plan before you can assess if you've improved. I'm very glad I stuck with the plan - in fact I haven't missed a single rep let alone training session! Trust the process...

I also slighlty improved in terms of pull ups, which wasn't expected because I didn't train to improve those. The hollow body hold tests core and was more or less the same as last time. Neither pull ups or core needs to get any better I think, I need to improve technique, tension, momentum, endurance, and contact strength. Still lots to do :)

Unfortunately, I still feel tired... The training is really hard for me. This is my rest week so I hope by the end of it I will be well rested! I don't want to start the max strength training cycle while still exhausted.

What will I do next time:

I'm going to Berdorf this weekend and will try to high point to at least the 5th bolt. If I can't, I will give up on Hermann Buhl (for now) and pick a different project. Plan B is an endurance route in an epic cave in Belgium, which also looks like a lot of fun to me. 

After this, I will start the max strength cycle of the lattice hangboard training. And I'll try to join Wildflower gym again 3 times a week for their technique training. Looking forward to it!

Statistics:

Climbed 0 meters on real rock.

Climbed 0 meters of aerobic endurance laps (while doing movement drills).

Taken 0 falls while committing to the next move.

Managed to do 38 moves on the 45 degrees spray wall at Wild Flower Gym

Best high point on project: bolt 4 of 11

Best low point on project: bolt 11 of 11