Weeks 33 & 34: bummer

What I did:

After a few rest days, I tried Hermann Buhl and wanted to high point to the 5th bolt. I fell on the last move on every attempt, regardless of conditions or how tired I was. Once I reach the final move, every time I'm completely powered out and can't do the final big move to the rest from where I could clip the 5th bolt.

This means I didn't meet my own deadline and should pick a different 8a project. I have some ideas, but haven't decided yet. The original plan B was a cave route in Belgium, as the 60 degree overhanging route really got me psyched.

Unfortunately, I got a small injury (physiotherapist says the attachment of the tendon needs rest) so I won't be able to finish the final cycle of the lattice hangboard training. Pity, because I managed to do 2 max hang sessions and they were fun. I was really looking forward to finishing the entire lattice hangboard training, and stopping early feels like a giant bummer.

Luckily though, it's a light injury so I can continue the technique training at Wildflower climbing gym.

Reflecting: 

Hermann Buhl is an incredibly challenging route for me, and although that is great (I've learning loads!), the down side is that it's not a very realistic 8a for this year. It helped me become a MUCH better climber (especially in terms of crimp, powerful moves and body tension), so I'm extremely grateful that I could spend as much time on the route as I did.

I think one of the main reasons I was feeling so powered out on the last big move to the 5th bolt, is because I climb too slowly. So this is something I need to work on. Also, because learning to do all the moves in isolation (going bolt to bolt) took me so long (15+ sessions), I never managed to incrementally make bigger and bigger links. So I went from essentially going bolt to bolt to highpointing immediately. This would ordinarily be a terrible strategy, but because I'm on a deadline (8a this year) it did make sense to test my progress this early on in the process to see if I should stick with this project or pick a different one.

Although I failed to reach the 5th bolt, I am extremely proud of the progress I made. The fact that I could reach the same move even when exhausted, dehydrated and with terrible conditions (30 degrees and in the sun) says something. I think I've grown massively in terms of mental skills: all I could think of on my last attempt, when every single move was a struggle and I could barely hold on, was "keep going, fall big!" Not so long ago, I had a fear of falling, so the ability to push myself and climb while insecure is a huge improvement (and it almost paid off too, as I managed to touch the final hold!).    

What will I do next time:

Over the next few weeks I will stop training so hard, and allow my body to recover completely. Really looking forward to this, because I've basically been tired for a few months now and my personal life is really suffering. I will still hangboard twice a week, but aim for recovery (40% of max weight) or density hangs (70% of max weight).

Also, I've been taking creatine during the last few months to assist with recovery. I will stop taking it now. Over the last year I gained almost 10kg as I've gotten much, MUCH stronger. I'm 80kg now and feel great. Stopping with creatine however, could result in some weight loss, so I'll keep an eye out for that because I don't want to lose my gains :)

Furthermore, I will decide which 8a to pick as a new project. If it's the cave route in Belgium, then endurance will be very important and I will add extra sessions for aerobic climbing endurance.

Finally, I will do the technique training at Wildflower gym.

Statistics:

Climbed 375 meters on real rock.

Climbed 220 meters of aerobic endurance laps (while doing movement drills).

Taken 4 falls while committing to the next move.

Managed to do 43 moves on the 45 degrees spray wall at Wild Flower Gym

Best high point on Hermann Buhl: bolt 4 of 11

Best low point on Hermann Buhl: bolt 11 of 11