Weeks 29 & 30: exhausted

What I did:

I'm exactly halfway my hangboard training plan that I got from lattice. It consists of 3x4 weeks of training, the first two cycles are focussed on power endurance and the last one will be focussed on max strength. Not surprisingly, I can feel my endurance improving, and my strength decreasing...

I managed to spend another day in Hermann Buhl. I attempted a high point and got to the 4th bolt. I will be in Berdorf again in a few weeks and then I MUST high point to the 5th bolt, or else I will pick a different project. After this one high point attempt, I was so exhausted that I couldn't do the opening move anymore (which requires me to full crimp, something I have very little experience in). I did manage to do most of the other moves despite this exhaustion, which does suggest the moves are getting easier for me to perform.

I also managed to join the technique training at Wildflower gym a few times. Together with their advice, I made some small modifications to the training plan from lattice. I replaced regular pull ups with off set pull ups (so I teach my bottom arm to push). I've also added campus board bumps (again, to teach my bottom hand to push for long deadpoint moves). Finally, I managed to get in a couple of aerobic climbing sessions in and some cardio.

Reflecting: 

Training is so much harder on the body than I realised. I've been told this, so I tried to be ready for it, but the impact is still bigger than expected. I'm also 36 years old and the last time I seriously trained for something (martial arts) was about a decade ago, so I also have to accept that I need more rest than what I'm used to.

The fact that I couldn't do the opening move of Hermann Buhl, but could do most of the other moves is fantastic news! It means paradigm shift I posted about last time really has had some profound effect. By focussing on tension rather than on beta, I managed to do most of the moves despite being so weak and exhausted from training that I couldn't even do the full crimp at the start of the route.

I notice that I'm terrible at the offset pull ups and at the campus board bumps. In fact, I will often experience a shooting pain in my lats or around the shoulder, so I will go to a physiotherapist soon to see what I'm doing wrong. Another thing that worries me is that my hips started hurting more during the projecting of Hermann Buhl. This is another thing I should discuss with the physiotherapist to decide whether any moves in the route could have anything to do with the increase in pain. And if so, if there's anything I can do about it...

Oh and towards the end, when I measured my strength on the 20mm edge again, I was slightly sick (recovering after 2 days of sore throat and slight fever).

What will I do next time:

Over the next 2 weeks I will finish the second power endurance cycle of my lattice hangboard training plan, and then finish the second cycle with an assessment to determine my finger strength and endurance. Hopefully, my crimp strength and endurance will have improved! The weekend after all of this, I will go to Berdorf and hopefully high point to the 5th bolt. Else, I will find me another project.

Also, I managed to 3D scan the holds on the crux dyno in Hermann Buhl, and I'm now working to create an exact replica of the holds. This could take a few weeks, after which I will replicate the dyno crux at Wildflower gym and practise it until it feels easy! 

No technique training due to holidays, instead more practise on the replica's I built on kilterboard of the cruxes. Looking to do them several times in a row with relatively little rest in between (2 minutes at first, working my way down to 1 minute between attempts).

Statistics:

Climbed 150 meters on real rock.

Climbed 75 meters of aerobic endurance laps (while doing movement drills).

Taken 10 falls while committing to the next move.

Managed to do 38 moves on the 45 degrees spray wall at Wild Flower Gym

Best high point on project: bolt 4 of 11

Best low point on project: bolt 11 of 11