Weeks 27 & 28: paradigm shift

What I did:

First the most awesome news: I published the two replicas I built of the cruxes of Hermann Buhl. Link to Crux 1 and Crux 2. Enjoy!

I spent 2 weekends in Berdorf, and the second time something amazing happened.

The first time, I found a better beta for the main crux! Figuring out the moves took so much energy that I couldn't do the dyno. I could repetitively do the move, but couldn't stick the dyno. I'm high enough, and I get my hand in the right position about half the time, but I'm having trouble with precision and commitment. This is the one move I still haven't managed to stick.

After this, I had an elaborate coaching session. Super short summary: I will highpoint to the 5th bolt by the end of August and low point from the 5th point by the 1st of October - else I will pick a different project to do this year. Plan B is an 8a in Belgium and plan C (if the weather is bad) is going to Spain for a month and projecting an 8a there. I will try and eat more carbs during my climbing trips, maybe it will help me get more energy during trips. I will add bumps on campus board to improve the ability of my bottom hand to keep tension (very necessary for the big moves in Hermann Buhl). And when I'm in Berdorf, I will focus on projecting on Friday and Sunday, and on Saturday I will do a couple of easier climbs (6a-6b).

Outside of Berdorf and the lattice hangboard training I joined technique training at Wildflower gym three times a week.

The second time I went to Berdorf, I couldn't do any of the moves quite the same way I used to. I felt weak. I couldn't quite figure it out: were the conditions so poor? Or did I get weaker (tired) due to training?

Then it hit me... the way I remember beta is totally wrong. The next day I applied my theory, and felt solid on all the moves. I even got very close to sticking the dyno, but unfortunately I only held on to that one for half a second. Other than that, I know how to do all the moves on Hermann Buhl.

Reflecting: 

So the way I remember beta is totally wrong. I was remembering where to put my hands and feet. But that's not very useful information: I already know where to go! What I need to remember is how to create tension to stick the moves, and from which body position to which body position I want to move. 

The strange thing is, when I was originally working the moves this was literally all I was thinking of! But somehow, I didn't store this information. So when I tried climbing on Hermann Buhl again, all I could remember was where to go. But now, on my last day at Berdorf, I decided to re-learn all the beta. I will now remember to activate the glutes to stay in the wall of the first move, or to relax just before the dyno to start as low as possible, then tense the calves and bottom arm to stick it. That information is very valuable, and that's what I will remember.

Furthermore, the technique training is paying off, I'm getting way better at keeping pressure on my feet. Although the technique training is on a 45 degree spray wall, I think it will still translate to Hermann Buhl. At the very least, I'm getting better at resting and keeping pressure on my feet.

Finally, I'm working towards being able to do 50 moves on the 45 degrees spray wall. My current max is 36 moves. Once I can do 50 I will start to exchange the moves for harder ones so it replicates the intensity of Hermann Buhl. Honestly, I still have a VERY long way to go and if it wasn't for the coaching session I wouldn't think I had a chance of still doing the project this year. But it doesn't matter, I have a game plan so I'm going for it!

What will I do next time:

Again 2 days of hangboarding, and 3 days of technique training. Hopefully by the end of the next 2 weeks I will be able to do 50 moves on the 45 degree spray wall. And in the 2 weeks after that, I MUST do a high point to the 5th bolt - or else I will find a different project for me to focus on this year.

Also, I found a way to practise the dyno at my local gym. This goes way beyond replicating the move using holds on a spray wall or board. If this works, it will be an exact imitation. More on this later!

Statistics:

Climbed 300 meters on real rock.

Climbed 0 meters of aerobic endurance laps (while doing movement drills).

Taken 23 falls while committing to the next move.

Managed to do 36 moves on the 45 degrees spray wall at Wild Flower Gym

Best high point on project: bolt 3 of 11

Best low point on project: bolt 11 of 11