Week 20: working near the crag

What I did:

I was allowed to work remotely, and as a result I could camp near the crag and climb in the evening. I don't remember ever climbing this much, so in that sense it was a huge success!

I tried some 6c's and 7a's, and punted off every one of them. Tried Hermann Buhl (8a+) in Berdorf again and could do 2 of the moves I couldn't previously do. 4 moves left! I think my progress towards sending is currently at about 10%. My goal right now is to get to the first rest in 1 go, which requires me to do one more section I couldn't previously do. Once I'm there, I think my project is at about 30% completed. Based on my current progress, I think I'll need 20 sessions before I'm able to do all the moves - probably while hanging in the rope twice.

  

 

Reflecting: 

First time this year I climbed this much on real rock, skin became a real issue. Skincare consisted of mono with CBD after climbing and climbskin before climbing. If I forgot to apply either, the back of my fingers would start to bleed any time I would even look at a pocket. The skin on the climbers side started to wear real thin as well, but I managed to keep it healthy.

I think I need more rest. This was good in terms of experience, but I feel totally exhausted right now. Perhaps a schedule of 1 day climbing 1 day rest would fit better for me.

In the first few days, the fear of falling crept back so I started working on that again and by week 2 I dared to climb again, despite the risk of falling on harder routes.

   

What will I do next time:

I will go to Berdorf again, and lattice hangboard plan whenever I get that. Right now I'm kinda putting all my eggs in one basket, trying to truly understand the rock in Berdorf. 

Also I will start with technique training over at Widlflower Gym in Leiden. First just to try it out, but if I like it then starting June I'll really start focussing towards getting better as a climber, by physical gains (hangboarding) and improving my technique.

 

Statistics:

Pulling powerAverage2 weeks agoToday
Left 44- -
Right 46-

 

Climbed 750 meters on real rock.

Climbed 80 meters of aerobic endurance laps (while doing movement drills).

Taken 21 falls while committing to the next move.