Weeks 21 & 22: last week of exploration

What I did:

I spent a lot of time climbing in Berdorf; sent a 7a (red point), 6c+ (red point), 6b+ (onsight) and came very close to flashing a 7a+. This was fun, useful and I have much more positive energy now than a few weeks back - which is great because it's time to start focussing on Hermann Buhl (8a+) again.

I also got a new routine to train and strengthen my hips, as prehab for my future surgery.

Finally, I also managed to get 1 move further into Hermann Buhl. The first time I tried it, I couldn't do 6 out of 10 sections. Now I have 3 out of 10 left. I think I'm at about 15% completion.

  

 

Reflecting: 

I notice I can climb almost double the amount during a weekend at the crag compared to earlier this year. My capacity is increasing! I'm also super psyched for my project, Hermann Buhl (8a+). I try it in short 30 minutes sessions with no more than 1 session a day. It seems to be working to keep me positive, because after every attempt I will have unlocked a new move or improved in another area. By filming most of my attempts I can analyse and improve my technique. I have so much to refine! I'm loving it.  

   

What will I do next time:

I won't be visiting the crag for 3 weeks so I can train: 1 week of power (campussing), 1 week of power endurance (4x4), followed by a rest week. After this, I will spend 2 weeks at the crag (weather permitting) and hopefully I'll be in good enough shape to be able to do all the moves on Hermann Buhl for the first time. 

Also, I've found a bouldering gym that gives technique training several times a week. I will try this out, as it has massive potential for me to grow and improve.

Statistics:

Pulling powerAverage2 weeks agoToday
Left 44-48
Right 46-52 

 

Climbed 660 meters on real rock.

Climbed 180 meters of aerobic endurance laps (while doing movement drills).

Taken 8 falls while committing to the next move.