Weeks 18 & 19: lattice & search for 8a

What I did:

I've been looking for an 8a to project. I've tried one in a cave in Belgium (Modave), which felt very doable but it will be hard to get friends to belay me there (as there's no other routes). Merlin in Ettringen seemed like a lot of fun, but the crux required a high step that I can't do because of my hip issues. Yahoo in Bomal also seems doable, but it's relatively short and bouldery and it just doesn't seem like the appropriate 8a for this challenge of mine. In Berdorf I tried several: Baraka and Jactatio both have cruxes that seem impossible to me right now. This leaves me with a classic 8a(+): Herman Buhl. Right now I can't do 6 of the 10 parts, and 2 of them seem crazy difficult, but I think given enough time I will find a way. So right now, I think Herman Buhl will be my project for the rest of the year! It's relatively hard to rope solo though, as it contains some traverses, but it's not impossible so I will be able to practise the moves even when I'm alone.

I did the Lattice assessment, my body weight was 75kg.

• Day 1:
  • 2 pull ups with +32kg (143%)
  • 7 second hang on 20mm beastmaker edge (open crimp) with +40kg (153%)
  • 7/3 repeaters at 60% (-6kg and open crimp) repeated for 200 seconds 
• Day 2:
  • 7 second hang on 20mm beastmaker edge (half crimp) with +14kg
  • 7/3 repeaters at 60% (-22kg and half crimp) repeated for 112 seconds
  • Hollow body hold for 60 seconds

Reflecting:

The difference between my half crimp and open crimp strength is astonishing. I really hope Lattice has experience with this, and can find a way to balance things out. I've had a few finger injuries this year, I think this is probably because I've been half crimping for the first time and my body isn't used to it. Time to get strong!

Also, my project seems impossible. But I'm trying not to get discouraged by not even thinking about sending it. I'm just thinking of ways to break it down into smaller pieces. Got some good ideas! I will focus on the first half of the route for now, until I can do all the moves there. Then try to link them. Then start looking at the second half. I'll also try to replicate the hardest cruxes on kilterboard. I'm excited about getting this process, it will be like having an intimate relationship with the route. At the end of this year, I will have spent more time on my project than with any of my friends! It's a crazy thought...

What will I do next time:

It takes Lattice a few weeks to come up with a personalised hangboard trianing plan. Meanwhile, I'll be climbing in Berdorf and Fontainebleau working on my project and doing many different sub-max boulders.   

Statistics:

Climbed 240 meters on real rock.

Climbed 0 meters of aerobic endurance laps (while doing movement drills).

Taken 0 falls while committing to the next move.