
Week 20: working near the crag
What I did:
I was allowed to work remotely, and as a result I could camp near the crag and climb in the evening. I don't remember ever climbing this much, so in that sense it was a huge success!
I tried some 6c's and 7a's, and punted off every one of them. Tried Hermann Buhl (8a+) in Berdorf again and could do 2 of the moves I couldn't previously do. 4 moves left! I think my progress towards sending is currently at about 10%. My goal right now is to get to the first rest in 1 go, which requires me to do one more section I couldn't previously do. Once I'm there, I think my project is at about 30% completed. Based on my current progress, I think I'll need 20 sessions before I'm able to do all the moves - probably while hanging in the rope twice.
Reflecting:
First time this year I climbed this much on real rock, skin became a real issue. Skincare consisted of mono with CBD after climbing and climbskin before climbing. If I forgot to apply either, the back of my fingers would start to bleed any time I would even look at a pocket. The skin on the climbers side started to wear real thin as well, but I managed to keep it healthy.
I think I need more rest. This was good in terms of experience, but I feel totally exhausted right now. Perhaps a schedule of 1 day climbing 1 day rest would fit better for me.
In the first few days, the fear of falling crept back so I started working on that again and by week 2 I dared to climb again, despite the risk of falling on harder routes.
What will I do next time:
I will go to Berdorf again, and lattice hangboard plan whenever I get that. Right now I'm kinda putting all my eggs in one basket, trying to truly understand the rock in Berdorf.
Also I will start with technique training over at Widlflower Gym in Leiden. First just to try it out, but if I like it then starting June I'll really start focussing towards getting better as a climber, by physical gains (hangboarding) and improving my technique.
Statistics:
Pulling power | Average | 2 weeks ago | Today |
Left | 44 | - | - |
Right | 46 | - | - |
Climbed 750 meters on real rock.
Climbed 80 meters of aerobic endurance laps (while doing movement drills).
Taken 21 falls while committing to the next move.