Weeks 8 & 9: projecting my first 7b

What I did:

I started projecting my first outdoor 7b and an indoor 7b+. I've rehearsed the moves on both, but haven't red pointed them yet. I'm SUPER close on the 7b (I can do it when I start at the second bolt), but in order for me to send the 7b+ I'll have to seriously improve my endurance. These routes are perfect for me to practise tactics and strategy though, and I'm happy to report I can give 100% on these routes without any fear of falling. That's a major milestone and the main goal of this phase.

I've had some appointments with the physiotherapist and orthopedic surgeon about my hips. They were a bit stunned at how quickly I'm improving in terms of hip stability! However, Every time I speak to a doctor they keep mentioning how they can't explain why I'm not in a lot of pain all day. Every time it's a realisation how badly damaged my hips are, and how careful I have to be to protect what cartilage I have left. But at the same time I feel super grateful and privilged that I found these 2 healthcare professionals, because (unlike other specialists) they've told me I can keep climbing if I adapt my style. And I can't explain how happy that makes me. I've also made the decision to have surgery. Essentially, I have a piece of bone sticking out on both sides of my hips, which limits range of motion and causes damage to the joint. Removing this bone would logically prevent further damage, but doctors have warned me it's quite likely it could have the opposite effect. After much deliberating and research, I've decided to go ahead with the surgery. I don't know what this means in terms of my road to 8a, but my health comes first. Wish me luck!

Reflecting:

I need a little bit more endurance to send projects, even short routes are proving to be too long for me. Transitioning from bouldering to sport climbing is proving to be harder than I thought! I'll also need a deload week soon.

My pulley injury seems to be healing just fine as well. I'm allowed to use crimps on big edges.

What will I do next time:

I will focus on endurance, similar to last time. Bouldering twice a week: once I will focus on anaerobic capacity (repeating flash level boulders 3 times with some rest). And once a week I will focus on endurance using the drop interval (6 by 6) routine in the crimpd app by Lattice. Whenever possible, I will try and incorporate climbing moves that I'm bad at like crossovers.

I will try and go sport climbing twice a week: once I will work on a 7b+ gym project I've picked and try and get loads of 6a-6b toprope climbs in. And once a week I will do ARC style training and do dozens of 5a-5c climbs in a light overhang for endurance.

However, any time the weather looks good over the weekend I will swap out 1 bouldering session and 2 indoor climbing sessions for a weekend at the crag. Time to send that 7b! :)

Statistics:

Climbed 220 meters on real rock.

Climbed 0 meters of aerobic endurance laps (while doing movement drills).

Taken 10 falls while committing to the next move.