Weeks 41 & 42: misery

What I did:

I injured a lumbrical and I got a pretty bad fever due to the flu. 

The first weekend in this period, I went on a day trip to my project: Glucose (8a) in Modave, Belgium. I reached the move to the 8th bolt (which marks the 7c variation of this route) 3 times in a row, even on my third attempt when I was completely exhausted (this route honestly only allows for 2 really good tries a day). I was happy with the progress and was considering moving on to the next step of my plan and focus on the 8a part (which has easier individual moves). However, as soon as I touched the first of the pockets in the next section, I felt a sharp pain in my hand and forearm...

2 days after the injury I had it looked at by a physiotherapist, he concluded it is a lumbrical injury... but mentioned I could still climb by buddy taping. He did recommend I avoid pockets, so I'm not sure if Glucose is still an option for me. Especially considering the awful weather that is predicted over the next few weeks.

The second weekend, I got hit by a pretty bad case of the flu and honestly I feel far from recovered right now. Considering the injury and the flu, I don't think I'll be close to 100% any time before December. So this changes my plan quite a bit.

 

How I spent my time

Reflecting:  

Such a cliché: it wasn't until I hurt my hand, and genuinely believed I wouldn't be able to climb for the rest of the year, that I realised how badly I want to succeed on my goal and climb an 8a this year. Since then, I've been motivated more than ever... but then I got sick :p

Honestly, it feels like I fought and lost... But just in case there's still a chance, I will put in the time and effort over the following weeks. Because it's very unlikely I will send Glucose (due to conditions and my injury), I will start preparing for my December trip to Spain. Worst case, working on Glucose will be a good training for the steep climbing in Spain. Maybe in December I can pick a new project around Valencia, and actually see it through this time. Third time lucky?
 

How I felt during training
My psych level (eagerness to train)

 

What will I do next time:

Rehab. Cardio. Core. And of course, physiotherapy for the hips.

I will also start training for Spain, which I believe will mostly require me to improve my aerobic endurance and possibly pinch strength. More information on this next time. To be continued! :)

 

Statistics:

Pulling powerAverage2 weeks agoToday
Left 46-42
Right 49-55

 

 

Climbed 75 meters on real rock.

Climbed 0 meters of aerobic endurance laps (while doing movement drills).

Taken 4 falls while committing to the next move.

Biggest link in Glucose: 7 bolts (out of 12 in total).